Thursday, Mat 16, 2013

This part of the ICW from the Alligator River into Virginia presents several options, but all of it involves BIG water – the Alligator River itself is as much as five miles wide in spots, then the ICW crosses Albermarle Sound where one must decide whether to head easterly through the conventional ICW past Coinjock and Currituck Sound or head more northerly into the Pasquatank River past Elizabeth City into the Dismal Swamp Canal. While we have traveled the conventional ICW a few times and it is slightly (by a few miles) shorter, we much prefer the route through the Dismal Swamp even though it takes a bit longer. Either way, conditions on Albermarle Sound dictate when you can cross. The 12 mile wide sound has a bit of a current that runs easterly and if wind has any easterly component above 5-10 mph the conditions are horrible since the wind and current generated waves are moving perpendicular to the path your boat must take to reach the far side – known as a beam sea. This means that a boat rolls from side to side as the waves pass under the boat and creates what can become a very unsafe situation as the boat rolls from side to side tossing everything and everyone from side to side.

We lucked out and had very light winds as we crossed the sound into the Pasquatank River, past the blimp “factory,” the Coast Guard Station (recently infamous for it’s rescue of some of the crew of the Bounty) and Elizabeth City. We chose not to stop at Elizabeth City because we wanted to get into the Dismal Swamp Canal at the first (0830) locking northbound the next morning. We anchored near Goat Island about four miles upriver from Elizabeth City in a nice, quiet, rural setting (other than the water skiers who stopped about 1930 in the evening.

Day: 62.2SM – 8H40M
Trip: 910.8SM – 125H45M

On Friday, May 17th we were underway at 0620 in order to travel the remaining distance to

the South Mills lock for the 0830 opening. We arrived about 0805 and were soon joined by a Hinkley sailboat that had departed Elizabeth City at 0530 in order to make the opening.

We both locked through at 0830 and by 0855 were through South Mills Bridge and on our

way to the NC/VA boarder and what we hoped would be an open dock at the far northern end of the canal where we could tie

up and shop for groceries at Deep Creek before the 1330 opening. The dock was available when we got there and a quick shopping trip to the nearby Food Lion replenished a few of the items we

needed. We were back aboard Sanderling at about 1300 and had gone through the bridge by 1335 and were in the Deep Creek Lock a few minutes later. Robert, the lockmaster, is well known throughout the cruising

community for his engaging personality and his willingness to share his vast knowledge of the local area and boating in general. This trip was no exception. Since we were the only boat in the lock we had a most enjoyable conversation with Robert and

eventually departed the lock 1415 and were on our way to rejoin the conventional ICW and on to Norfolk.

In Norfolk we stopped for fuel at the Ocean Marine Yacht Center which typically has the

lowest price in the area for diesel fuel. I’m sure the $3.46 (with taxes and a Boat US discount) per gallon price will be the cheapest diesel fuel we’ll encounter on this year’s cruise. We also filled our water tanks and got rid of our accumulated trash.

We then proceeded through the industrial and military section of Norfolk/Portsmouth to

anchor in one of our usual anchorages in this area at Old Point Comfort (Fort Monroe) where we spent a fairly comfortable night with winds around 10 MPH from the east (blocked by Old Point Comfort). The forecast for the next few days was concerning because of continued winds from the east reaching 20 mph gusts. We’d have to wait until the morning to see how we would fare!

Day: 56.3SM – 11H50M
Trip: 967.3SM – 137H35M

 

More about Saturday’s progress later, but just to eliminate the suspense for now we got underway at 0850 and by 1050 we anchored in the Back River about 10 miles up the Chesapeake from where it turns north along the western shore. Waves were running 3-4 feet and we couldn’t seem to find any relief. It was easier to move into the Back River to a protected anchorage than to go back to Norfolk and take a chance on an anchorage there. We may be here for another day before venturing out again – we’re waiting for the wind to clock around to the west to get the Bay settled down.

More later!

We’ve made it to Solomons on May 20th – beautiful weather for the past two days. Baltimore tomorrow.

Saturday, May 18, 2013 – Old Point Comfort

We knew the conditions on Chesapeake Bay wouldn’t be ideal, but the NOAA forcasts (and all the other weather sites we consult) suggested that once we got north of the Norfolk area things would settle down a bit, and, we assumed, would result in a bumpy but doable passage to the Great Wicomoco River just south of the Potomac River entrance. Wrong! We departed the anchorage about 0850 and as soon as we exited into the main ship channel we encountered rolling and wind-blown seas. Sanderling was pitching and rocking as we rounded the intersection of the bay and the ship channel to head north and we couldn’t find any area where the waves had settled down. Here’s Judy’s assessment of the situation as she wrote in our ship’s log:

Roughest water we’ve experienced in this Sanderling. Topside table/chairs over, regridge door came open and all contents in saloon floor and down into aft cabin. No breakage, because all “mobile” items had been previously secured.

We were able to get to the western side of the bay and enter Back River, and as soon as we got into the Back River channel the seas settled down; when we rounded the little peninsula the water was flat calm! We proceeded further into the river and anchored immediately north of Langley Air Force Base. We planned to spend the remainder of the day and possibly the next day waiting for the easterly winds to subside or clock to the southwest.

Day: 15.9SM/13.8NM – 2H00M

Trip: 855.4 NM/983.0SM – 139H35M

The next day (Sunday, May 19th) we got underway at 0830 to take a look at the bay. Weather forecasts suggested things would be calm, but we were prepared to turn back if it looked at all rough. Turned out to be a mill pond – as smooth as it gets on Chesapeake Bay. We made good time against an ebb current with light wind from the SSE and anchored at Sandy Point in the Great Wicomoco River at 1715.

Day: 51l8NM/59.5SM – 8H25M

Trip: 907.NM/1042.5SM – 148H00M

Monday, May 20, 213 – Great Wicmoco River

Anchor was up and we were underway at 0630. A large portion of the day was spent crossing the wide mouth of the Potomac River, then past the Navy targets and around Cedar Point into the Patuxent River. We took a mooring at Zanhiser’s Yacht Center at 1540 – another beautiful day on the bay! We got showers at the marina, made a dinghy trip to West Marine to get a couple of needed boat items, and then had a wonderful dinner at the CD Cafe – one of our favorite restaurants in Solomons.

Day: 42.4NM/48.7SM – 6H05M

Trip: 949.6NM/1091.2SM – 154H05M

On Tuesday, May 21st we were underway at 0545 in order to make Baltimore in time to meet Jennifer for dinner. Again, the bay was uneventful with long stretches letting the autopilot steer up the bay, past Annapolis and under the Bay Bridge into the channel leading to Baltimore. As we approached Annapolis our AIS and radar showed four large ships anchored in the designated anchorages, presumably waiting for a favorable tidal current into Baltimore. We had to change our course slightly to avoid them, and then maneuver off to the far western side of the main channel just before the bridge in order to let a HUGE car carrier safely pass at 16 knots! Once we got into the Baltimore Channel we had to be continually on the lookout for the four waiting ships, and as we passed under the Francis Scott Key bridge one of them was getting close with two Moran tugs keeping it company. We turned off into the channel into the downtown Baltimore area before we saw where she was heading. We had lines to the dock at Henderson’s Wharf Marina at 1540 and met Jennifer for dinner about 1800 when she arrived. We hadn’t seen Jennifer for almost a year, and it was nice being able to catch up in person rather than by phone.

We’ll depart tomorrow (weather permitting) to resume our trip to Canada.

Day: 65.2NM/74.9SM – 9H55M

Trip: 10114.8NM/1166.1SM – 164H00M